Fattoria Le Pupille Saffredi 1987–2006

29 Января 2010

Celebrating the 20th anniversary of an acclaimed Super-Tuscan


FULL RETROSPECTIVE OF A SUPER-TUSCAN FROM MAREMMA AT THE TASTING SAFFREDI VINEYARD

Text: Eleonora Scholes
Photos: spaziovino.com

Celebrating the 20th anniversary of Saffredi with owner Elisabetta Geppetti felt a bit like being invited to a family party. The story of this famed Super-Tuscan is so intertwined with Geppetti’s own life that Saffredi can be considered a sixth off-spring, alongside her five natural children. If so, then Saffredi is her eldest child, its maiden vintage being 1987, four years before her first daughter arrived.

Not unusually for an acclaimed wine, the birth of Saffredi was accidental. After the untimely death of her father-in-law Alfredo (the wine is named in his honour), 20-year-old Elisabetta took over the family estate of Fattoria Le Pupille in Maremma in 1985. In the previous year, together with the long-standing consultant Giacomo Tachis, she grafted new Cabernet Sauvignon vines on an old 1ha (2.5-acre) Sangiovese plot. The wine’s quality was distinctive, and Geppetti and Tachis decided to bottle it separately. Saffredi was launched with the 1987 vintage, soon to become a classic in the category of Super-Tuscan wines.

Between 1986 and 1987 a new vineyard, intended exclusively for Saffredi, was planted next to the existing plot. It was made up of circa 2.5ha (6 acres) of Cabernet Sauvignon, just over a hectare (2.5 acres) of Merlot and about half a hectare (1.2 acres) of Alicante. Grapes from the original Cabernet vineyard were last vinified and added to the Saffredi blend in 1994. From 1995 onward, the harvest has invariably come from the new plot that has become known simply as Saffredi. It lies on a slope with south-eastern and north-eastern exposition, 920ft (280m) above sea level. Vines are trained as cordone speronato, with the density of 4,000 plants per hectare. The soil is poor and predominantly limestone.

Throughout the years, Fattoria Le Pupille benefited from the help of three prominent consultants: Giacomo Tachis, Riccardo Cotarella, and Christian Le Sommer.

Giacomo Tachis lent his expertise until 1996. Cabernet Sauvignon in purezza was used for four initial vintages of Saffredi, with the wine later developing into a blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Alicante. The share of the latter two grapes gradually increased and reached 37 percent in 1995, Tachis’s last vintage. Saffredi 1996 wasn’t released on the market, on grounds of being in transition from one consultant to another. Three further vintages, 1997–99, were made by renowned Tuscan enologist Riccardo Cotarella. He relied on the 55/30/15 formula – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Alicante respectively. In 2000, French consultant Christian Le Sommer, formerly a Chateau Latour winemaker, was hired; he is still in charge today. Like his predecessors, he employs a classical vinification scheme. Fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats. Then the wine stays for 15-18 months in new French barrels, after which it is bottled unfiltered. From the 2005 vintage onward, Le Sommer reduced the share of rustic Alicante, having partially replaced it with Syrah.

If nothing else, the tasting at Fattoria Le Pupille in September 2009 showed how a winemaker can fundamentally influence a wine’s style. Saffredi vintages made by Giacomo Tachis were heterogeneous, reaching their ultimate height in 1995. Riccardo Cotarella applied his powerful yet polished style, having created one of the most memorable wines in 1999. Saffredi by Christian Le Sommer are graced with elegance, which appears a better reflection of the vineyard’s character. The vines are now enjoying a stage of good maturity which also helps the winemaker to get the best out of them. All the wines came from Fattoria Le Pupille cellars. They were double-decanted several hours in advance and served during the tasting.

Saffredi 1987
100% CS; 13% ABV; 4,000 bottles
Dark cherry red. Wide flow of mature aromas, intense and warm red fruit, leather, and underbrush. Later, the focus moves to savoury and dark fruit notes. Full and expressive on the palate, with excellent balance. Again, there is a line of red fruit, underbrush and savoury notes, complemented by spice. Full finish, highlighted by a light spiciness of cinnamon sticks. The wine is still in excellent shape. 16.5

Saffredi 1988
100% CS; 13% ABV; 4,200 bottles
Even deeper cherry red. Eucalyptus, herbs, and minerals in the foreground, along with dominating red fruit and underbrush. Aromas are not as powerful as in 1987, and more elegant. The palate is lighter, though the fruit, notably redcurrant, is still concentrated and is mixed with bright eucalyptus. Slightly dry tannins and lively acidity, freshness and elegance. Medium finish. 16

Saffredi 1989
100% CS; 13% ABV; 4,600 bottles
Dark cherry red. Appetising and intense, the nose showing meaty, balsamic, and underbrush notes. Powerful and exuberant flavours, speaking of the warmth of the vintage. Dense red and black fruit and balsamic notes. Rich, persistent finish. A genuine tour de force. Only seven bottles remain in the cellars. 17.5/18

Saffredi 1990
100% CS; 13% ABV; 5,000 bottles
Dark cherry red with garnet rim. Open, expressive aromas of dark fruit, cedar, and meat reduction. The palate is mature but remains fresh, full, and integrated. Black currants and prunes dominate, underlined by soft spice and balsamic tones. Grippy tannins. Lifted finish, with good volume. 17.5

Saffredi 1991
80% CS, 15% M, 5%A; 12,5% ABV; 6,800 bottles
Dark cherry with a wide red rim. Restrained nose of red fruit and eucalyptus, but warm through alcohol. This is a medium-bodied, fresh example styled in a manner of wines from cooler regions. Red fruit – notably red currants and plums – are not intense enough to support protruding tannins. Finishes on a lifted note. Best drunk soon. 15.5

Saffredi 1992
78% CS, 17% M, 5%A; 12% ABV; 8,000 bottles
Dark cherry. The nose, built on red fruit, prunes and eucalyptus, appears diluted. The palate is fresh and medium bodied, with rather sweet dark fruit. Chunky tannins deprive the wine of elegance. Linear finish. 15

Saffredi 1993
75% CS, 18% M, 7%A; 13% ABV; 6,800 bottles
Cherry colour. Pungent farmyard aromas; red fruit on the palate is marred by musty, earthy notes of cellar. Lively acidity and light structure. The aftertaste quickly disappears. I suspect this was not the best bottle to show the vintage. 14.5

Saffredi 1994
70% CS, 22% M, 8%A; 13% ABV; 12,000 bottles
Dark cherry. Bright, savoury aromas with leather nuances. The wine is medium-bodied but may seem denser, thanks to good concentration of fruit, dried fruit, and spices. It might leave a better impression if the tannins were more polished. The finish is medium, with a touch of chocolate. 15.5

Saffredi 1995
63% CS, 25% M, 12%A; 13,5% ABV; 15,000 bottles
Dark cherry. Wonderfully evolved nose, with red fruit, earthy and animal notes. This seductive, elegant, and harmonious wine displays nuances of strawberries and other red fruit and boasts silky tannins. Sensual and long-lingering finish, with good volume. 17.5/18

Saffredi 1997
55% CS, 30% M, 15%A; 13,5% ABV; 19,000 bottles
Cherry ruby. Modern in style: polished aromas; deep, dark fruit; cedar and pencil shavings. The palate is rather elegant and stays fresh, thanks to good acidity. Unmistakable Cabernet profile but with Maremma flair. Sweet black currants and cedar are intertwined with balsamic notes. Full, persistent finish. Long life ahead. 17.5/18

Saffredi 1998
55% CS, 30% M, 15%A; 13,5% ABV; 20,000 bottles
Cherry ruby. The nose is clean and polished, but inexpressive, with red and dark fruit. Fresh and easy to drink, this is a lighter style than previously. Tannins still need to come around. Medium length. 16.5

Saffredi 1999
55% CS, 30% M, 15%A; 13,5% ABV; 18,000 bottles
Dark cherry. Introvert, tightly woven aromas open up very reluctantly, but they have great inner force. The palate is balanced and well polished; solid structure and great depth. Sweet, ripe fruit supported by coating tannins. Among the most remarkable Saffredis. 18

Saffredi 2000
55% CS, 30% M, 15%A; 14% ABV; 20,000 bottles
Black cherry. Open, perfumed aromas of roses, plums, and red fruit make this wine particularly attractive. The palate is silky and supple, but evolving fast. Nuances of dried and fresh red fruit. This mid-weight Saffredi is wonderfully charming, thanks to its lifted and nuanced flavours, though its discreet tannic structure may not be well suited for long life. Full, staying finish. 17

Saffredi 2001
55% CS, 35% M, 10%A; 13,5% ABV; 23,000 bottles
Ruby cherry. Focused, elegant nose, still very youthful, combines red fruit, new oak, cedar, and eucalyptus. The palate is styled like a good claret. It is fresh, tight, and well-structured, with ripe red and black fruit. Crushed-stone minerality lingers in a long finish. One of the greatest vintages for Saffredi. Still needs five years to open. 18+

Saffredi 2002
55% CS, 35% M, 10%A; 13,5% ABV; 21,000 bottles
Ruby cherry. Fluid, plumy nose. The palate is fresh and of medium concentration, with ripe fruit and balsamic notes, but it lacks drive. Grippy tannins. 16

Saffredi 2003
50% CS, 40% M, 10%A; 14% ABV; 23,000 bottles
Ruby purple. Polished, creamy aromas of fresh red berries. New World-like flavours, with forthright fruit, generous spice, and dry tannins. Finishes on warm notes of coffee and fruit. Drink now. 16

Saffredi 2004
45% CS, 45% M, 10%A; 14% ABV; 25,000 bottles
Dark ruby. Reticent nose, but nuances of red fruit and herbs emerge from great depth. The palate is tight, showing superb structure and balance. Black fruit is mixed with balsamic and eucalyptus notes. Fine, yet firm tannins. Great volume in the finish. For me, this is the wine that most accurately reflects the essence of the Saffredi vineyard. 17.5/18

Saffredi 2005
45% CS, 45% M, 7% S, 3%A; 14% ABV; 24,000 bottles
Dark ruby. Deep, perfumed, still primary red-fruit aromas. The palate is also quite youthful, with succulent red currants and peppery spiciness. Firm tannins are built in a good structure. Full, chocolatey finish. 17+

Saffredi 2006
45% CS, 45% M, 7% S, 3%A; 14% ABV; 23,000 bottles
Dark ruby. The perfumed nose is reminiscent of red fruit seasoned with ground black pepper. The palate still needs to harmonize its dark fruit, new oak, and discerning tannins. Yet this is a new and promising, energizing style that, like the previous vintage, benefits from Syrah. 17.5+

The article first appeared in The World of Fine Wine issue 28 2010



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